a person wears a translucent jacket made of collagen and is running
GOLD
Bio-textiles for sustainability
Mimotype Technologies
Partner
2021 - 2022
Year
Future-proof regenerative clothing. Tapping into the potential of quick iteration cycles, we supported the biotech startup Mimotype in developing an outdoor textile demonstrator based on collagen.
Our role:
Design lead
Design for circularity
Innovation scoping
Demonstrator development
a black zipper on the collar within the translucent material of the jacket
a hand tightens the cuffs of the jacket

Challenge

About 65% of all textiles on the market are of synthetic origin. Global production of synthetic fibers has doubled from 2009 to 2021. In the context of the prognosed growth in demand for textiles, it is assumed that in 2050, petroleum consumption will reach 300 million tons and account for 26% of total CO2 emissions. In addition, textiles are assumed to be responsible for 22 million tons of microplastics entering the oceans between 2015 and 2050.

the process of collagen textile bio-production, from the material analysis to the recirculation of the material is shown in a system map
● Circular production blueprint for collagen textiles

Vision

From 2025 onwards the European commission aims to implement recycling obligations for clothing producers. Sustainable material development in this sector is indispensable. GOLD explores the interface between functional clothing and sustainable, circular materials.

Biologically produced textile fibers from collagen initiate a biosynthetic value chain for the textile industry based on renewable raw materials and using sustainable energy sources.

Material

Collagen is the most abundant biopolymer in nature, therefore animal skins have been used by humans throughout history. For example, the Inuit made water-repellent gut parkas from similar tissue types to keep hunters dry in their kayaks. Collagen is biodegradable, and chemically easy to separate from fiber composites without toxins. The recyclability of collagen fibers for further use is currently being researched in a follow-up project.

Experiment 1: parallel running black yarn is held between two layers of gold beater skin
Experiment 2: Gold beater skin is joined to textile by a seam
Experiment 4: by adding more and more layers of gold beater skin, a color gradient is created, also a change from very lightweight to stable material properties is formed
Experiment 5: a zipper is sewn between two sheets of gold beater skin
Experiment 6: a thick piece of gold beater skin is laminated between two thin layers
Experiment 3: in the gold beater skin are reinforcements made of thicker skin in these areas are holes through which a rubber cord is guided
● Sample production for assembly and lamination

Process

Following historic processes and production steps we applied advanced methods of fabrication including robotic yarn laying and material lamination. The experiments resulted in a taxonomy of process steps that were documented in videos and material samples.

From RNA sequencing to material archaeology, this design research project examines a specific cow gut tissue with the goal of creating a sustainable highly performant textile.

pieces of gold beater skin are laminated on a table

Biotechnology & Concept
Mimotype Technologies

Mechanical Testing
Filk Freiberg

Images
Denny Sachtleben
WINT Design Lab

Concept & Design
WINT Design Lab

Assistant
Carl Bahra

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